View from Kew

Skydiving

2011-09-24T17:03:00.026-05:00

I finally took the leap (literally) and completed a special item on my bucket list - skydiving. My tandem instructor HazzMatt had over 8500 jumps to his credit. Apparently, having a competent tandem instructor was less important than finding a fantastic photographer to make my keepsake video. Ori succeeded in making a great video and taking lots of pictures. Aunt Gloria provided moral support.

We exited the plane at 14,000 feet and fell at 120 mph for about a minute before opening the chute at 6,000 feet. It took about 5 more minutes of floating (I loved this part) before landing softly.

Ori the Photographer

OAT Ultimate (South) Africa - Overview

2011-07-02T14:03:00.076-05:00

Overseas Adventure Travel Ultimate (southern) Africa is one of my favorite trips for many reasons.

Once we arrived in Johannesburg, we were shuttled to a comfortable airport-area hotel. The optional tour of Soweto included visits to neighborhoods (some quite posh, others very poor), Regina Mundi church and Hector Pieterson museum. I left with a much greater understanding of Apartheid history.

We stayed at four very different camps in Botswana (Chobe NP, Okavango Delta), Zambia (Kafue NP) and Zimbabwe (Hwange NP). I loved flying on the small planes between camps. We flew very low and could see herds of elephants and pods of hippos.

We saw 38 different types of mammals including a leopard which completed my "Big Five" list.

We saw over 115 species of bird and the occasional snake, spider or reptile.

We ended our tour in a very nice lodge in Victoria Falls with a view of a watering hole and a hotel shuttle bus away from Afternoon Tea at the historic Victoria Falls Hotel.

Victoria Falls itself has been on my bucket list for a long time and did not disappoint. We toured both by helicopter and along the scenic paths through Victoria Falls NP.

Coincidentally, all 13 of us in our group were women. All were experienced travellers with a great sense of humor. We took good care of each other with our oft repeated motto "It takes a village ..."

Our fearless leader was Wallace Gwatidzo who kept us safe, informed and entertained. He was determined to impress us with the wonders and hospitality of southern Africa, especially his native Zimbabwe. Every child we met wants to be a doctor or a bush pilot or a guide. Wallace and all of our safari guides were enthusiastic ambassadors for their countries and natural treasures.

Final Note: Normally I complain bitterly about OAT air arrangements (once OAT wanted to route me from Houston to Panama City via Miami with a 5 hour layover instead of sending me on any number of 4-hour non-stop flights) but the arrangements on this trip were as perfect as could be. A non-stop overnight flight on BA to London Heathrow; a day room at the lovely Sofitel in Terminal 5 where I could take a shower, nap, and leave my luggage safely; and another non-stop overnight flight to Johannesburg. On our return there were delayed flights, missed connections and lost luggage - but this was no fault of the itinerary or OAT.

Victoria Falls

2011-06-29T17:44:00.103-05:00

Victoria Falls was magnificent and we visited at the perfect time - not so much water that we were blinded by spray nor so little that we were not impressed. Located on the Zambezi River between Zambia and Zimbabwe, these falls form the largest sheet of falling water in the world.

From our helicopter and on previous flights, we could only see spray. As we approached by helicopter, we could see the water thundering into a single chasm. We also got a fantastic view of the Victoria Falls Bridge, completed in 1905 when Zambia was Northern Rhodesia and Zimbabwe was Southern Rhodesia. Seeing the falls by helicopter should not be missed!

After our helicopter tour, we walked on delightful paths along the falls. It looks sunny but we wore waterproof ponchos and still got drenched. We also watched crazy people bungee jump head first off the Victoria Falls Bridge. They hung upside down over the gorge for what seemed like an eternity (and that was just me watching) until someone finally reached them and they were "winched" up.

After all that excitement, we were ready for "Afternoon Tea" at the elegant Victoria Falls Hotel with its lovely views of the falls and bridge. Guests are only a 10-minute walk from the Falls.

We walked into town for a bit of shopping and took a shuttle back to our hotel with its view of a watering hole, popular with elephants and other thirsty wildlife.

It was in our deluxe Victoria Falls Safari Lodge that I had my most frightening wildlife encounter with a gargantuan spider on my mosquito netting. I took several deep breaths before calling the front desk and the clerk actually asked if it was on my pillow. I replied that if it was on my pillow, I would be screaming. A very nervous man with a box and a broom arrived to save the day.

Life in the Camps

2011-06-27T07:04:00.200-05:00

We drove from Victoria Falls to our camp in Chobe National Park. After that, we flew in small (often very small) planes to our camps. The bush pilots were usually young locals but one came from Canada. Our international flight from Botswana to Zambia required a copilot and we got a South African Airways commercial pilot who was moonlighting for some extra cash.

We stayed 3 nights in each of 4 camps. These camps catered exclusively to OAT travelers and thus provided the amenities and services soft adventure American travelers love. Clean comfortable tent cabins with ensuite facilities, hot showers, and a means to charge our cameras and kindles. Hot coffee and breakfast provided first thing in the morning. Plenty of water, snacks, delicious meals and a well-stocked bar meant no one ever went hungry or thirsty. At lunch and dinner, the head chef and other staff members were introduced by name. Daily laundry service was a dream and always returned artfully wrapped with straw ribbon. Each stay ended in a night of entertainment by the talented staff. Most amazing of all, despite the fact that new groups arrived constantly, the staff always maintained their enthusiasm and made you feel welcome.

Every camp provided many game drives, plenty of wildlife spotted by expert guides and happy hour at sunset. Great care was taken to keep us safe and informed of what to do in the event of an emergency.

While every camp maintained consistency in quality of accomodation and services, each camp also tried to distinguish itself with a memorably different experience. OAT took great care to place us in four unique landscapes.

Baobab Lodge, Chobe NP, Botswana: 6/18/11 - 6/21/11

I bought a basket woven byGrace

We launched our river cruise from a nearby luxury lodge.

Wilderness Camp, Okavango Delta, Botswana: 6/21/11 - 6/24/11

We travelled to the hippos by mokuru canoe.

Lufupa Camp, Kafue NP, Zambia: 6/24/11 - 6/27/11

The camp is at the confluence of the Lufupa and Kafue rivers, and I went on every river cruise offered.

This was the only camp offering tsetse flies. The guides burned elephant dung as a deterrent and we made sure we applied our DEET.

We were allowed to go on night drives and spot a leopard.

Linkwasha Lodge, Hwange NP, Zimbabwe: 6/27/11 - 6/30/11

My cabin was so remote from the main camp that I had to be driven there at night and escorted to my door.

Man-made water holes for animals are formed by pumping water up and through the Kalahari Desert sands. The water is so purified that our water at camp could be drunk straight from the tap.

This camp offered bush walks with an armed guide. He showed us how to approach a herd of wildebeest without being noticed.

Big Five: Finally Saw My Leopard

2011-06-26T09:22:00.030-05:00

The "Big Five" are supposedly the five most dangerous mammals: Lion, Cape Buffalo, Elephant, Rhino and Leopard.

Lion, Cape Buffalo, and Elephant were plentiful.

No Rhinos on this trip but I had seen several on an East African safari in 1974. Spotting this leopard at night was a fantastic way to complete my sightings of all "Big Five."

Cheetahs - Hunting and Posing

2011-06-25T16:05:00.036-05:00

In Kafue National Park (NP), we spotted two cheetahs walking purposefully down the road. One disappeared into the bush almost immediately while the other looked intently into the bush.

Suddenly the cheetah shot into the bush. Our guides went quiet and then began talking to each other. Finally, one turned back to us and said "We think they've made their kill - let's go see."

Off into the bush we drove and when we reached the thornbush, we could see and hear a cheetah chomping away on fresh puka.

Below is the 3rd brother who participated in the hunt, pacing nervously in our presence.

In Hwange National Park (Zimbabwe) we stumbled upon a cheetah who was a photographer's dream. He was conveniently waiting for us by the side of the road.

As we approached, he yawned.

Ambled over to a tree

Sharpened his claws and sprayed said tree

Then proceeded to hop atop a termite mound where he moved his head from side to side, pausing so that the most inept of photographers could capture a great shot.

Happily we each complied by taking at least 50 photos of that photogenic fellow.

Elephants

2011-06-23T20:38:00.010-05:00

One up close and personal encounter was with an elephant ambling quite close to our cabins on the Okavango Delta.

In Zimbabwe, man-made water holes are much appreciated.

An elephant shakes a tree to make tasty pods fall to the ground.

Elephant dung repels insects when burned, a valuable tsetse fly deterrent in Zambia. Another guide told us his wife drank elephant dung diluted in water to ease delivery pains - she swears by it!

On the Chobe River, elephants swim out to eat grass. When one arrives, it greets the other elephants by intertwining trunks before it moves on to feed. My big thrill was dozing off in the sunshine on our cruise and then waking up to see an elephant swimming next to me.

Our guides tried to gently broach the subject of "culling" elephants where they are overpopulated and destroying the natural environment. We did not want to hear any of it.

Hippopatami

2011-06-23T18:48:00.003-05:00

Hippos are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and can easily outrun a human (can you run 19 mph?) despite weighing between 3,000 and 4,000 pounds. At our camp in Zambia, they came up out of the river next to my cabin at night to forage for food. But our most up close and personal encounter was by mokoro, the traditional dugout canoe used on the Okavango Delta.

We approached a large pod and got so close, we could photograph the bristles on this one's back.

The little one was curious but the bull was furious!

On several river cruises, we saw hippos swimming with birds on their back who tried to keep the hippos bug-free. The hippos would scramble up the bank to get out of our way.

But they didn't seem to mind the crocodiles.

A pod of hippos gathered by the man-made watering hole.

This ailing mother hippo laid down in the middle of the road. Her calf will stay with her for days until he must return to the river and eat.

African Wild Dogs aka Painted Dogs

2011-06-22T15:18:00.024-05:00

Our Okavango Delta guides were absolutely thrilled to see this pack of 17 or 18 (well-camouflaged) African Wild Dogs. Our guides claimed with great admiration that a pack of hunting dogs never loses the prey it targets and always make the kill. BBC says these dogs usually hunt at dawn or dusk, or at night if the moon is full. They hunt by sight rather than smell. Reaching speeds of 55 mph they chase their prey until it tires and can disembowel their prey as it runs.

You can see why they are also called Painted Dogs. They are endangered and population estimates range from 3,000 to 5,500. In addition to havoc wreaked by humans, entire packs can be wiped out by rabies and distemper. Only the alpha male and alpha female mate, so litters are limited.

Several of the dogs wore collars which enable researchers to track them. Our guides cannot track the dogs but when they saw the research vehicle in the area, they knew these dogs had to be close.

These dogs play like my Guapo and Darla, and I even saw one dog grab the other dog by its tracking collar and pull (Guapo knows exactly what that feels like.)

HATS Carlsbad Caverns & Guadalupe National Parks

2011-04-18T15:07:00.067-05:00

Hugo of Houston Area Trails and More (HATS) organized a camping trip with us and his hiking group from the Bay Area (California). Hugo and others drove in all of the cooking equipment and much of the food supplies from Houston. Ardis and I flew into El Paso, spent a night in a comfortable Holiday Inn Express, bought supplies from WalMart and drove about an hour to Guadalupe Mountains National Park to set up camp.

We all drove into New Mexico to visit Carlsbad Caverns. Lucky for us it was "National Park Day" and admission was free. It was also late, the main elevators were out of commission and we had to hustle to the natural entrance.

We headed down, way down ...

.... passing through room after room with amazing stalagmites, stalactites and other eerie sorts of formations (captured beautifully by my fellow campers).

Sadly, this was not bat "season" and we missed seeing a million bats exit the caverns at sunset. Instead, we relaxed back at our campsite.

Comfortable by day ...

... but a bit chilly in the evening.

The next day we got ready for our big challenge - hiking up Guadalupe Peak, the tallest mountain in Texas at 8,751 feet. We "only" had to hike up a net 4,000 feet (8.4 miles round-trip in 4.5 hours).

Success (and sunburn) !

After a hard night of celebrating, we packed up camp and drove back to El Paso. We drove along the Sonoma Mission Trail and enjoyed some Tex Mex before flying home.

Big Bend National Park

2011-01-30T09:54:00.090-06:00

Kris planned this trip to test his endurance after his double-bypass surgery. Big Bend National Park is one of the least visited National Parks, not because it has little to offer but because it is so remote. It was a 14-hour drive each way (broke journey both ways with an overnite in San Antonio) between Houston and Big Bend. Once we got off I-10, it was slow going on curvy roads amidst starkly beautiful scenery.

We stayed at Chisos Lodge inside the park. The rooms were basic but the location stunning. We reveled in this view on the scenic trail and at dinner every evening. The nights and mornings were terribly cold but the mid-day temperatures were almost intolerably hot.

We spent two full days in the park. Each day, Kris planned a short hike and a more challenging hike. The first day, we hiked "Window View" from the campground - 4.4 miles round-trip with a 500-foot elevation gain.

I was so busy taking pictures, I almost tripped over this javelina.

In the afternoon, we hiked Boquillas Canyon - 1.4 miles RT with 40 foot elevation gain. The Rio Grande separates Big Bend from Mexico and the water was so shallow you could easily cross over. However, there were numerous warning signs citing $5,000 fines should you seriously think about doing so. Along the trail were wire animals, walking sticks and other items for sale with prices - honor system for leaving the cash. We were serenaded by a musician across the river who pointed out a can on our side where we could leave a tip if we were so inclined.

The next morning we started our day with a short hike through Santa Elena Canyon

On our return, we visited Castolon to learn a bit about the military and ranching history in this area. Kris was feeling strong and eager to embark on our most difficult hike, Lost Mine Trail. At 4.8 miles round-trip with an 1100-foot gain and climbing temperatures, it was a struggle. Although we took no pictures of the far-reaching vistas, we were extremely pleased with ourselves when we reached the summit. Kris proved that his heart was now strong.

Peru: Overview of the Highlands and the Amazon

2010-06-25T14:52:00.040-05:00

What do you visit in Peru when you have already seen Machu Picchu and the Nazca Lines?

Teresa embraced that challenge when Jan and I visited her during the South American winter month of June.

We visited pre-Inca ruins outside Lima (Pachacamac and Caral), Lake Titicaca (Floating Islands), Sillustani (Burial Towers), Colca Canyon (Patapampa Pass ~16,000 feet, Andean Condors and Skull Candy) and Arequipa (including Santa Catalina and Juanita the "Ice Maiden") Then Teresa sent us on a short ecoadventure along the Amazon, over the rainforest and within petting distance of Charlita who is a capybara (largest rodent in the world)

Peru: Amazon Blow Guns, Piranhas & Pink Dolphins

2010-06-13T17:09:00.006-05:00

Besides Capybaras and Canopy Walks, the Amazon has much to offer the ecoadventurer. Pink dolphins are tricky to spot but the pet sloths are tame.

Blowing darts is eerily accurate.

These young children are resourceful Jan was a successful piranha fisher We remained calm during our breakdown and rescue

Peru: Charlita the Capybara

2010-06-12T17:08:00.003-05:00

Capybaras are the largest rodents in the world, reaching up to 140 pounds and 4.3 feet in length. Charlita was gentle as the children fed her leftover cake from lunch.

Peru: Canopy Walk

2010-06-12T09:03:00.000-05:00

Explorama constructed one of the world's longest suspended walkways over the jungle canopy - 1640 feet long and rising to 122 feet. We were fascinated by the construction and the views.

Peru: Iquitos, Amazon River & Ceiba Tops Hike

2010-06-11T17:07:00.032-05:00

The mighty Amazon River is at least 4000 miles long and second in length only to the Nile. For me, the Amazon has always conjured up images of deer-eating pythons, deadly frogs, and natives with expertise in poisonous blow darts. The Amazon is also a working river. As we motored upstream from Iquitos to our lodge at Ceiba Tops, I marvelled at how some of these boats managed to stay afloat.

Our lodge was far more rustic than the Casa Andina Private Collection and Teresa's penthouse apartment in Lima, but we still had a private bath and A/C in the room. From our lodge, we walked among frogs and spiders and creatures we preferred not to think about. Some spiders were well camouflaged ..... .... and other spiders were quite bright. We felt incredibly brave just holding a frog and only after our guide assured us it was safe.

Peru: Caral

2010-06-10T17:06:00.012-05:00

Caral was settled between 3000 and 1800 BC, making it the 3rd oldest “civilization" after Mesopotamia / Egypt and before India / China. Peru is struggling to develop this site to give it the attention it deserves. They are leaving many of the monuments under the sand dunes to prevent looting until funds are available to restore and preserve the monuments. For more insight into this civilization, view this BBC special:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/horizon/2001/caraltrans.shtml

Peru: Arequipa

2010-06-09T17:14:00.010-05:00

Maria de Guzman founded Santa Catalina in 1580 as a means for women from wealthy, high-class Spanish families to enter religious service. Every nun brought a significant dowry, 25 listed items (some even brought fine English china) and between 1 - 4 servants / slaves. Although they could not leave the convent, they lived a lavish lifestyle with concerts and parties and surrounded by fine art.

Life was good until Pope Pius IX sent Sister Josefa Cadena to "reform" the monastery in 1825. Things went downhill fast from there. After a few earthquakes in the 1960s, the convent was restored and opened to the public for tourism with proceeds helping to support the small religious population still living within these walls.

We were extremely fortunate to view "Juanita" in the Santuarios Andinos Museum as she often travels to other museums. Juanita is still frozen and in a special glass box for viewing. (These pictures are from the museum website.)

Johan Reinhard and Miguel Zarate discovered Juanita high on Mount Ampato. Finding her body was amazing enough and there was even more drama during the second climb to retrieve her body.

Juanita died ~1450-1480 when she was ~11-15 years old. There is reason to believe she was a religious sacrifice (bashed in head, so far from home). Her tissue has provided many insights into Incans of her time.

Peru: Yanahuara

2010-06-09T11:06:00.007-05:00

Outside Arequipa, we stopped into a nursery outside Yanahuara with views of volcanos ....

... and exotic fruits and vegetables.

We learned about maca (Lepidium Meyenii), a root with great medicinal and nutritive properties that grows at high altitudes (12,800 - 14,800 feet). We were also offered coca leaves in various forms to alleviate altitude sickness, depression and pain.

The small town featured fine examples of the white sillar stone used in so many buildings here and in Arequipa.

Peru: Colca Canyon Condors

2010-06-08T17:05:00.036-05:00

We hiked along the canyon while waiting for the condors to begin hunting from "Cruz del Condor". Andean Condors are vultures and scavengers, but they prefer larger prey such as dead cows and beached marine mammals. At over 10 feet, they have the largest wingspan of any land bird (exceeded only by the Wandering Albatross and Dalmatian Pelican sea birds)

We thought they were magnificent and spent several happy hours watching them soar from beneath our view point (we were almost 4,000 feet above the canyon floor) to above our heads.

On our drive back to Arequipa, we saw this woman herding her llamas...

... and little girls leading their alpacas.

Our hotel (Casa Andina) in Arequipa was delightful and well-situated.

Peru: Colca Canyon Patapampa

2010-06-07T17:04:00.054-05:00

After having flown from Juliaca into Arequipa the night before, we set out early morning on our Colca Canyon adventure. The Colca Canyon is 124 miles long and over 11,000 feet deep. We passed fascinating flora and fauna (note nursing alpaca).

The fertile valley was filled with terraced farming.

And we admired volcanoes

But my big thrill was a personal altitude record. The sign said 4,910 meters which is a bit over 16,000 feet (Cusco is a mere 11,200 feet and El Tatio Geyser Field is 13,800 feet above mean sea level)

We continued on for lunch at La Casa de Mama Yacchi in the sleepy town of Corporaque

After lunch our guide decided to take us on a long, steep hike.

Our reward was the sight of candies placed in the mouths of pre-inca skulls. Note the elongated shape of the skulls, a sign of beauty.

At the end of our hike, we were ready to join these burros seeking shade.

We travelled back along the canyon to our hotel. This was the most rustic and quiet of all the places we stayed. We amused ourselves by watching craftsmen embroider various useful souvenirs like eyeglass cases and water bottle holders. We also attended the planetarium / observatory lecture but the astronomer spoke so quickly I am not really sure what planets and stars I saw. I still took pleasure in the plentiful constellations in a night sky with almost zero artificial light.

Peru: Chucuito & Sillustani

2010-06-06T17:02:00.039-05:00

We visited the Chucuito “Fertility Temple” ruins for a short time before walking up the hill to the main plaza. We wandered around taking photos and waiting for the “procession”.

The Sillustanti burial towers called “chullpas” were built by the Colla people perhaps 500 years ago. Some are almost 40 feet high and many are unfinished.

Up and over the ridge we viewed the peaceful Lake Umayo.

For a small fee, the nice lady allowed Teresa to pet the young alpaca.

Enroute to the airport, we saw ranches and alpacas

BTW – If you ever get confused between alpacas and llamas, check out the great video on this website: www.owning-alpaca.com/alpaca-and-llama.html

Peru: Lake Titicaca

2010-06-05T17:02:00.049-05:00

We flew into Juliaca to reach Lake Titicaca which at 12,500 feet above sea level is the highest commercially navigable lake in the world (slightly larger than Lake Tahoe). Our room in the Hotel Casa Andina Private Collection had a spectacular view of the lake.

Early in the morning, we set out for the Uros Floating Islands. Our enthusiastic guide explained how floating islands are created from totora reeds, fish are farmed and how water depth is checked. When the islands get built up too much and are too close to the bottom of the lake, they are pulled out to deeper water.

We appreciated seeing how the women created the textile souvenirs we bought.

We had our picture taken with colorful singers, moments before they hopped off and sang our farewell concert. Two strong men rowed us over to the next island which was much more fun than taking the bigger, faster speedboat.

We were picked up from Amantani and sped off to the larger and fixed (not floating) island of Taquile. We climbed and climbed until we finally reached our restaurant for lunch. Gorgeous views on a gorgeous day.

Then we climbed even higher via a steep shortcut to “downtown” or the main square.

Further along, we saw a home under construction, waiting for its bricks to dry.

Finally, we cleared the island ridge and started our descent, passing an industrious weaver.

As we waited for our boat to bring us back to our hotel, we marveled at how the water was as clear as in the Caribbean.

Peru:Pachacamac

2010-06-03T17:01:00.026-05:00

Pachacamac is a largely pre-Incan archeological site located only ~25 miles outside Lima. An important fact I had to be reminded of repeatedly was that the powerful Inca Empire existed for the relatively short period of time from ~1438 to 1533. Therefore, much of what we visited was referred to as “pre-Incan”.

On site there is cemetary and fish fresco from ~200-600 AD. The Huari established Pachacamac ~600 – 800 AD. Most of the buildings, including at least 17 pyramids, were built ~800 – 1450 AD. When the Inca arrived, they allowed the Pachacamac priests to continue to function independently. The Inca built five more buildings, including a temple to the Sun. Teresa’s driver Esau drove us slowly around the complex while our official guide navigated. Quite often, we got out at a viewing point (usually with an explanatory placard) while our guide provided additional details and history. At one point, we made quite an ascent through the sand and were treated to a view of the ocean. No wonder everyone wanted to live here!

The museum displayed many examples of textiles and ceramics. Outside the museum, we were greeted by dogs that had lost much of their fur, but sported jackets intended to protect at least some of their exposed skin from sunburn.

After a hard day of sightseeing, we lunched at a nearby seaside restaurant. We are not drinking a pitcher of sangria but rather “chicha morada” which is a Peruvian specialty made from purple corn. The Peruvian Cuisine Blog (www.peruvian-cuisine.blogspot.com) provides the following recipe to make your own:

Ingredients:

• 1 ½ lb (¾ k) purple corn

• Peelings from 2 lb (1 k) cooking apples

• Peelings from 1 large pineapple

• 4 key limes

• 1 cup sugar, or to taste

• 4 whole cloves

Bring to a boil the well washed apple and pineapple peelings, the corn and cloves with 3 quarts water. Simmer for half an hour, and then strain.

Repeat simmering process with same ingredients and 3 quarts clean water. We have to strain and mix both liquids.

Finally, add sugar and lemon juice. Serve chilled.

Note: Add sugar and key lime to the Chicha only when ready to use. In fact, before adding sugar and lime it can be kept in the refrigerator for a few days

Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) Overview of Panama & Route of the Maya (3/24/10 – 4/11/10)

2010-05-20T15:18:00.014-05:00

Not only did I get to tick off 5 countries on my list ( Panama, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala & Belize), I also saw and experienced a wonderful part of the world. I completed a partial transit through the Panama Canal, visited indigenous communities (Embera, Maya), climbed through Mayan ruins (Joya de Ceren, Copan, Tikal, Yaxha, Lamanai), toured Spanish colonial cities (Panama City, San Salvador, Guatemala City, Antigua), zip-lined across a bioreserve, ferried around lakes Atitlan and Peten Itza, and witnessed many Santa Semana (Holy Week) processions. My fellow travelers were experienced and all had a great sense of humor. Our Route of the Maya guide was knowledgeable and ensured our days were full. OAT did not charge me a single supplement and overall I got good value.

Overseas Adventure Travellers Group Photo in Front of Tikal

OAT Belize: Lamanai Ruins and Wildlife

2010-04-10T22:24:00.028-05:00

Crossing over the border from Guatemala into Belize was challenging because of the strained relationship between the two countries. Guatemala believes a significant portion of Belize belongs to Guatemala and boundaries continue to be disputed. We had to take all of our luggage down from the top of the bus, walk it across the border ourselves, and then load it again. The Belize population was clearly more "Carribean" than Spanish and if the Belize immigration officials spoke Spanish, they were not admitting it. This "English-Only Spoken Here" made it easier to remember that Belize used to be British Honduras.

Belize City was rather seedy and the hotel food especially uninspired. But the approach by boat on the New River to the Lamani ruins made visiting Belize worthwhile. We saw 24 species of birds (list at end) including two "10,000 pointers" : Laughing Falcon and Barethroated Tiger Heron. We were amused by the osprey that was clearly conflicted - it wanted to fly away to safety but it did not want to stop eating the fish it had caught - it finally decided to stay. We admired a number of pretty birds and a pair of mottled owls.

Enroute, we saw Mennonites fishing. There are about 2500 who live here. They wear white hats and the women wear long dresses.

Ivania caught a great shot of one of the raucous howler monkeys that greeted us as came ashore

Lamanai means "Submerged Crocodile" and has been continuously occupied for 3500 years (1500 BC until recently when Lamanai was declared a national park and the Mayan residents were relocated).

We passed by the Jaguar temple and through a small ball court (where mercury and cinnabar were found)

The High Temple is 32 meters high and is the 2nd largest pre-classic structure in the Maya world. We pulled ourselves up by clinging to the metal chain. Our reward was a view of the river and jungle.

After our picnic lunch, I set off on my own to explore.

I found the Spanish Church ruins

and the British Sugar Mill abandoned in 1864

Lamanai Bird List * 10,000 point bird

1) Swallow, Mangrove

2) Osprey

3) Hawk, Black Collared

4) Falcon, Laughing *

5) Falcon, Bat

6) Trogan, Slaty Tailed

7) Owl, Mottled

8) Heron, Barethroated Tiger *

9) Heron, Little Blue

10) Heron, Boat Billed

11) Heron, Great Blue

12) Heron, Green

13) Jacana, Northern

14) Kingfisher, Green

15) Kingfisher, Ringed

16) Kite, Snail

17) Trogan, Blackheaded

18) Limpkin

19) Anhinga

20) Cormorant, Neotropic

21) Egret, Cattle

22) Aracari, Collared

23) Kingbird, Tropical

24) Blackbird, Redwinged

OAT Guatemala: Yaxha

2010-04-09T22:23:00.020-05:00

Yaxha is the 3rd largest Mayan complex in Guatemala and provided several climbing opportunities.

OAT Guatemala: Lake Peten Itza

2010-04-08T22:22:00.036-05:00

As it started to drizzle during our "Sunset Tour" of Lake Peten Itza, I was beginning to think the highlight of this excursion was going to be the complimentary Chilean "wine-in-a-box". But Ivania managed to capture the sun peeking through the storm clouds.

We paid a surprise (for us) visit to a small family-owned museum in the middle of the lake.

There were plenty of authentic Mayan artifacts

and a conch blowing demonstration

A happy ending!

OAT Guatemala: Tikal

2010-04-08T15:21:00.020-05:00

Tikal reached its zenith from AD 300 to 900 and was home to as many as 100,000 Maya. Tikal has an estimated 3000 structures including the 144-foot Temple of the Grand Jaguar, tomb of "Moon Double Comb" who was buried with 180 carved jade pieces. We climbed three very tall temples that day for an excellent cardio workout and breathtaking views.

OAT Guatemala: Antigua Paseo de los Museos to Flores

2010-04-07T22:18:00.044-05:00

We spent a morning in the Paseo de los Museos contained within the only 5 Star hotel in Antigua, Casa Santo Domingo. If you can afford it, you should stay here. It sparkled!

Ivania kept us enthralled as we meandered through the hotel tunnel art gallery, past convent ruins and down into crypts, into a chocolate shop for a treat, and then into a series of museums: pre-colombian artifacts, colonial art, native arts and handicrafts, apothecary and glass. In the glass museum (my favorite), a Mayan artifact was paired with a similar object in modern glass. For example, a Mayan rabbit might be placed next to a Lalique crystal rabbit. Of course, no pictures allowed and my postcards don't scan well!

It was now time to drive to Guatemala City and catch our flight (a propeller plane) to Flores.

OAT Guatemala: La Antigua Guatemala

2010-04-06T22:26:00.102-05:00

The city we know as la Antigua de Guatemala was founded on March 10, 1543 and named "Santiago de los Caballeros". Spain was tempted to move this colonial capital when a 7.4 magnitude earthquake destroyed over 3,000 buildings on September 29, 1717. After the Santa Marta earthquake struck in 1773 and destroyed most of the city, Spain made the decision to relocate everyone to Guatemala City in 1776. There are historians who argue that the government destroyed what the earthquakes did not, in an effort to convince reluctant citizens to move to the new seat of government. Known now as la Antigua (the Old) Guatemala, the city languished until some Spanish Language schools were formed. Now, learning Spanish is a thriving industry that has attracted many tourists to this quaint city and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our city tour took us past many churches in various stages of restoration.

People still do their laundry (free water) by hand in the center of town

I found the McDonald's garden to be an oasis in the hustle and bustle of the city. Free computer access and those delicious McCafe capuccinos were a bonus.

We visited the reputable "Casa del Jade" where we were assured that Guatemalan "Jadeite" [pyroxine NaAlSi2O6] is rarer and far superior to Chinese "Nephrite" [actinolite Ca2(Mg,Fe)5Si8O22(OH)2], although both are known to us as "Jade." .

The textile factory was more touristy than interesting

Market Day in Santa Maria de Jesus was colorful. The shoe sales were compelling for many but we thought the ducks were adorable.

Ivania caught great shots of shoppers.

I attended Elizabeth Bell's "Behind the Walls" lecture in the evening while others enjoyed a folkloric show and dinner.

OAT Guatemala: Macadamia Nut Plantation

2010-04-05T16:34:00.013-05:00

Lawrence Gottschamer and Emilia Aguirre founded the Valhalla Experimental Station ( http://www.exvalhalla.net/ ) in 1985 to produce robust macadamia nuts sustainably. Their son conducted our tour, describing why Guatemala macadamia nuts are superior to all others.

We saw how a tire was incorporated into the shelling apparatus.

Quality control, Sorting and Bagging

Most of us took advantage of the free macadamia nut oil head massage and food samples. The chocolate covered macadamia nuts and cardamom were heavenly!

OAT Guatemala: School & Home-Hosted Lunch

2010-04-05T13:17:00.000-05:00

In San Luis Pueblo, we visited a school supported by OAT and today it was the 4-year olds' turn to host. Each of us was greeted by a student, taken by the hand and led to their classroom. My hostess was Maria Jose.

The teacher did a remarkable job getting the children to sing the Guatemalan national anthem (in Spanish, not Mayan), dance, and pose for a group picture.

After our visit, we were divided into 3 groups for a home-hosted lunch by mothers of some students. Our hostess was later joined by her husband. Using my rudimentary Spanish language skills and a dictionary, we were all able to communicate to our hosts what we did in our former lives and they were able to tell us a little about their current lives.

School visits, home-hosted lunches, and support of the local communities are ways OAT differentiates itself from other tour companies.

OAT Guatemala: Lake Atitlan to Antigua via Sololá

2010-04-04T22:15:00.029-05:00

Enroute to Antigua from Lake Atitlan, we stopped in Sololá. The colorful cemetaries were fascinating. Some families have tombs for which they have paid in full and will always belong to them. But many of the spaces are rented. If a family stops paying rent (as they often do after a few years), the remains are disposed of somewhere else (after removing any valuables) and another family rents the space.

We went into town to learn about "chicken buses". Old American school buses are shipped to Guatemala and purchased by entrepreneurs who repaint them colorfully, replace the seats with benches that will hold ( a lot ) more passengers, and choose their own routes. This is often the only way villagers (and this looked like the whole village) can get into town. They can really pack them in.

We reached Antigua and checked into our hotel. This is actually a purpose-built new hotel designed to look old. It was in a gated neighborhood outside but within walking distance of Antigua.

We got into Antigua in time to see another Holy Procession

Antigua at night can be breathtaking!

OAT Guatemala: Lake Atitlan

2010-04-03T22:14:00.078-05:00

Our hotel in Panajachal on Lake Atitlan was lovely and much to my delight, we got to stay a few days. Three volcanoes surround the lake: San Pedro, Toliman and Atitlán. The lake is 1000 feet deep (deepest in the western hemisphere), covers 130 square miles and is 5000 feet above sea level.

We took a ferry to San Antonio Palopa.

We were fortunate to see a woman weaving with a backstrap loom. Unlike a foot loom, backstrap weaving limits the width. That is why huipiles must be pieced together. Ellen Riojas Clark wrote a moving essay noting that the powerful Lady Xoc of Chiapas, Mexico was shown wearing a huipil on a 725 AD limestone carving. "To wear a huipil is to elegantly declare one's identity, history, and culture in the tumult of contemporary life." Ivania said that today, many choose huipiles from other villages and it is no longer possible to positively identify a woman's village by the huipil she is wearing. The most prized huipiles are from San Antonio Aguas Calientes. They take 4-6 months to weave, the designs are colorful and complicated, and the outside and inside are identical.

We took a ferry to Santiago to view Maximon and the Procession

Back in Panajachel, Ivania took us on a walking tour terminating in a pupuseria. Kathy made pupusas while the rest of us just ate them.

Kathie's (not to be confused with pupusa-making Kathy) cousin met us for pupusas and invited us to his vacation home in San Pedro. Off we went on another ferry ride to see his home, a bit of the town and his favorite coffee shop where he spends most of his morning hours.

OAT Guatemala: Ziplining on Steroids Above San Buenaventura Bioreserve

2010-04-03T12:13:00.010-05:00

We climbed up 40 minutes through coffee plantations and across hanging bridges to reach the start of our zipline-on-steroids adventure high above the 247-acre San Buenaventura Bioreserve canopy. We were clipped onto a cable strung from one mountain edge to another. I read somewhere that the farthest we could fall was 600 feet but it looked like a few miles down at least.

Our guides told us to keep one hand on top of another to stay relatively stable and not pivot during our initial rapid descent. But about 2/3 way down we needed to reach back with our leather palmed glove and pull down on the cable to brake. I could not see the end (some ziplines were 1000 feet long) and asked how I could tell when I was 2/3 down. They claimed they would wave a red flag from the other side when it was time to brake. They did this some of the times. One time I started braking too soon and almost had to pull myself in. Another time I braked too late and got stopped in time by the safety knot before ramming into the side of the mountain.

After the first zipline, I was literally trembling. I had to hike a way to the start of the next one. I only started enjoying the experience after the 3rd and was admiring the spectacular views by by the last and 8th zipline. My "Cables Extremos" diploma was well-earned.

OAT Guatemala: Santa Semana Holy Week Processions

2010-04-01T22:11:00.090-05:00

We were fortunate to be in Guatemala during the Santa Semana Holy Week processions and we watched as many as we could. In 1543, the first religious procession in Guatemala was modelled after the processions in Spain. The Maya have incorporated their own beliefs, aspects of Catholicism, and other spiritual practices. The processions start and finish at a church.

Although smaller processions start on Ash Wednesday, the important processions follow this schedule during Holy Week (www.travelyucatan.com/maya/mayan_holy_week_2006.php)

Palm Sunday [Purple]: Day Jesus arrived in Jerusalem.

Holy Thursday [Purple]: Last Supper

Good Friday [Purple]: Jesus' crucifixion, performed in 14 stations

Holy Saturday [Black]: Loneliness of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Easter Sunday [Traditional Mayan]: Resurrection of the Christ.

We saw elaborate "carpets" (alfombras) being made from colored sawdust, flowers, fruits, vegetables, and pine needles. Then, hundreds of people with expressions of suffering or rapture slowly carried a "float" (anda) that looks like a casket with holy figures on top. A float literally weighs tons and it takes great coordination not to drop it. As soon as the float passes, a cleanup crew rapidly sweeps up and carries away the remains of beautiful carpets.

Thu 04-01-10 Guatemala City

Ivania gets directions to the Processions

Even the dogs know to wear Purple

Fri 04-02-10 Procession outside Guatemala City

Sat 04-03-10 Creating Sawdust Alfombras in San Antonio Palopa on Lake Atitlan

Sat 04-03-10 Santiago on Lake Atitlan Procession

We waited 2 1/2 hours but others waited longer

The alfombras were amazing

The stairs were treacherous. Time and again the float would appear but its carriers would then scurry back into the church. Finally, they made it out of the church and safely down the stairs.

We would have liked to see the malevolent Mayan deity Maximon in procession but he wasn't scheduled until much, much later.

Sun 04-04-10 Easter Sunday Procession in Antigua

More relaxed dress code

OAT Honduras: Horseback to Pintada Maya Chorti Community

2010-03-31T22:09:00.012-05:00

Our destination was the la Pintada Maya Chorti community, so isolated that some children walk 2 hours each way to study.

The Pinata got to ride up in a truck while I rode a pregnant horse named Princessa. I chatted amiably in Spanish with Wilson, the son of the stable owner and a student in College (private and not to be confused with escuela or school). Wilson loves horses and math.

The Guatemala national anthem is arguably the longest in the world. These children had to sing it in their native Mayan language before they were allowed to sell us dolls or beat the pinata.

The Japanese taught the women to make cornhusk dolls as a way to earn income for their families. Our guide Ivania bought us each a doll from the co-op. She explained that the proceeds from dolls sold in the co-op get evenly distributed among all women who participate. However, money from sales made by an individual go directly to that family. That is why the children were so eager to sell us their dolls rather than let us select from the co-op display shelves.

I may have had to ride a horse to get here, but at least I didn't get the stuffing beat out of me!

OAT Honduras: Copan

2010-03-31T14:08:00.122-05:00

Copan was a capital Mayan city during the 5th to 9th centuries AD. Every 52 years, new temples were built over the old temples. Las Sepulturas describes the residential area within Copan. The Maya were the only people in the Americas to develop writing. Most importantly, the Maya are not a "lost" civilization because Mayans and their communities still exist today.

Altar Q is a rectangular stone altar with carved portraits of all Copán's rulers from the founder, Yax Kuk Mo, to the last, Yax Pac.

The "Hieroglyphic Stairway" has 63 steps with 2,500 glyphs, or symbols (Maya use symbols to represent phonetic syllables instead of letters), carved into the stone. This and the Mayan translation / codices developed by Bishop Diego de Landa were crucial in deciphering 85% of the Mayan glyphs (Yuri Knorozov and David Stuart are important contributors to this effort). "18 Rabbit" (13th King) built the Hieroglyphic Stairway but his successors expanded it in an attempt to regain respect among their subjects after 18 Rabbit was captured and publicly beheaded by minor enemies.

Other trivia I learned:

- Skulls probably refer to a place of burial

- Carvings that look like an elephant trunk really represent a macaw

OAT El Salvador: San Salvador

2010-03-30T22:03:00.003-05:00

Our hotel in San Salvador was beautiful but we were not allowed to linger. I barely had enough time to eat one pupusa (a speciality of El Salvador) at breakfast before we had to board our mini-bus.

Our local guide was proud of the many who demonstrated great bravery during the Civil War in El Salvador as the poor tried to free themselves from the shackles of a few wealthy families. He told us of the stories of Augustín Farabundo Martí Rodríguez (leader of the FMLN and executed by the government) and Archbishop Óscar Arnulfo Romero y Galdámez (assasinated). We visited Romero's final resting place in the basement of the Metropolitan Cathedral.

After our tour of this essentially Spanish colonial city, we purchased a pinata for some children we would visit later. He took up a lot of valuable space on our bus!

We had a fabulous view while lunching on Lake Coatepeque (300’ deep volcanic lake)

A Mayan protest at the border delayed our entry into Honduras but the policemen were happy to pose with us.

OAT El Salvador: Joya de Ceren

2010-03-30T16:04:00.085-05:00

Unlike Copan in Honduras or Tikal in Guatemala, UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site Joya de Ceren ( http://www.fundar.org.sv/) is not an important Mayan religious or political center. Instead, this is a small village buried under about 20 feet of volcanic ash ~600 AD. All apparently escaped except a duck, some birds and a few mice.

The most exciting discovery here is the well-preserved domed temascal or "sweathouse". These structures were used for bathing, childbirth and healing.

Much about the daily life of the ordinary Mayan has been learned at this site. By taking casts of perishibles, the archeologists were able to identify crops grown here: Maize, Manioc, Squash, Beans, Chili, Malanga, Cotton, Agave, Achiote, Jocote, Cacao, Guava.

Oddly, no mention of the cashew that is growing well today. We learned that although the cashew fruit is delicious, the cashew nut we know and love is poisonous until roasted.

OAT Panama: Panama Canal

2010-03-27T21:59:00.056-05:00

We drove quite a ways to get to the starting point of our northern partial transit through the Panama Canal.

We were regaled with facts during the entire transit:

The Panama canal will celebrate its 100th anniversary on August 15, 2014. The canal is being deepened and straightened for post-Panamax ships at a cost of over $14 billion. The canal is a fresh water canal, depending on an annual rainfall of 16 feet. Lake Gatun is the 2nd largest man-made lake in the world (Hoover is the largest).

There are about 36 full transits per day. All morning travel goes north and all afternoon traffic goes south. Transit tolls through the canal are based on vessel size, type and cargo. The cruise ship Norwegian Star pays $487,000 to make the full transit but Richard Halliburton (registered as the S.S.Halliburton) only paid 36 cents to swim the entire canal in 1928.

Herman the German is the largest floating crane in the world. The US bought it for $1 after WWII but it cost $3MM to move it from Germany to Panama.

We passed through the only gap in the Continental divide. Passing under the Avenue of the Americas bridge was spectacular.

At the Panama Canal museum at the Miraflores Locks, we learned even more about the operation of the canal. From the observation deck, we were able to see the locks open and ginormous ships being guided through by trains.

OAT Panama: Embera Village

2010-03-26T21:57:00.039-05:00

We arrived by dugout canoe to the Embera Village in Chagres National Park and were greeted with a musical performance. With grace and pride, they told us about their lives, music, dance, rosewood carving, and basket weaving. The children attend school in a nearby village and all can read and write in Spanish. They must go to Panama City if they want to continue their education past 6th grade. This is financially and logistically difficult for the village.

I was delighted by their weaving and bought a plate and a mask

The women cooked lunch for us and then danced.

Some tourists brought kites for the children who immediately began trying to fly them. It took some serious pantomiming to convey that they should be running against the breeze instead of with it.

OAT Panama: Panama City

2010-03-25T21:56:00.040-05:00

First stop was to peer through the fence at the now decrepit former home of Manuel Noriega.

Next it was to the ruins of Panama La Vieja (Old Panama) founded by Pedro Arias de Avila (aka Pedrarias) in 1519. Much of the Peruvian gold passed through here on its way to Spain. Privateer Henry Morgan seized the city in 1671, capturing 600 prisoners and enough treasure to require 175 mules to carry it.

In 1673, the survivors decided to rebuild in what is now called San Felipe or Casco Antiguo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We crossed a beautiful promenade with a view of the modern city. San Felipe is a pretty colonial city with several churches, plazas and beautifully renovated hotels.

I was very impressed with the willingness of Jack and Jacquie to try the shaved ice with a sugary syrup and condensed milk. I was happy to stick with the gourmet ice cream at Gran Clement.

I had quite an experience at the Museo del Canal Interoceanico. As we were enjoying this informative museum, a TV crew decided to interview our guide. Jose then volunteered "Carrie knows Spanish." They proceeded to ask me questions in Spanish about how I liked Panama, what was my favorite exhibit, etc. I babbled on incoherently in Spanish and was sure this segment would be cut. I've given much better interviews in English that didn't get aired, so I didn't bother to turn on the TV at 7 pm to Channel 11 when the segment was to be shown. But our guide and some in our group watched and much to my surprise, claimed the segment opened with me and that I had the longest air time.

OAT Travel Cautions for Central America

2010-03-24T06:09:00.003-05:00

Air Travel Logistics - Inconvenient

I signed up for the trip with airfare until I learned that I would leave at 6 am, return at midnight and transit times were all day because I was being routed from Houston through Miami with long layovers. When I enquired about anything better, OAT proposed routing me through Atlanta. And I thought I was geographically challenged! They graciously agreed to let me find my own way without penalty for cancelling the flights (within 2 hours of finding out details). I ended up using frequent flier miles. I left at 9am, returned at 8pm, and my direct flights were only a few hours in either direction.

Panama Pre-Trip - Too Long

Although I enjoyed everything I saw, the 5-day Panama pre-trip should have been 3 days at most. We were dropped off at our hotel promptly at 3 pm each day and the optional night tours were casually cancelled. Our convention hotel was located in a neighborhood that could easily be explored thoroughly in two hours. I caught up on all of my e-mail and internet reading, finished The Teaching Company “Great Ideas of Philosophy” lectures, read “7 Days to Spanish” and finished all of the books I brought with me except one. I drank many (quite good) cappuccinos at the McDonalds McCafe thinking “I don’t need to be in Panama to do this.”

Accomodation Location - Too Far

OAT warns that you must be able to walk 3 miles in a day, implying that this is the distance you will need to walk during a day of sightseeing. It could also refer to the distance from some of our accommodation to the nearest town and / or restaurant. It was always a good idea to take the optional evening excursion with dinner or you would be navigating long distances on rough roads in the dark for dinner or savoring an energy bar in your room (or scarier still, trying to negotiate a taxi to and from town). Fortunately, the optional tours were fun and reasonably priced.

Viking River Cruise (VRC) Overview: Romania to Germany on the Danube

2009-11-15T21:00:00.027-06:00

At 1775 miles, the Danube is the 2nd longest river in Europe (the Volga is the longest) and the only river to flow from west to east. My travel buddy Teresa and I took a Viking River Cruise on the Danube and the Main-Danube Canal through Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany. We passed through dozens of locks. When you see pictures of us in snow and ponder our decision to take the last cruise of the season, tease Teresa about her famous last words "I would rather be too cold than too hot".

Our days were filled with learning, exploration and a lot of walking (needed to partially offset the delectable pastries, marzipan, gelato and chocolate.) All tours were included with a good variety of sights and experiences. We were pleasantly surprised by the balanced views given to us by our guides, especially in the former communist countries. Some missed the free education and guaranteed jobs under communism and others detailed how their families had suffered. At night we ruthlessly culled, sorted and uploaded photos to Snapfish for safekeeping via free wi-fi on the ship.

VRC Germany: Nuremberg

2009-11-14T21:00:00.020-06:00

Unlike most of the other stops on the cruise where we docked within walking distance of town, we had to be taken quite a distance by bus to Nuremberg. That was because we were not really docked on the Danube itself but rather on the Danube-Main Canal.

We were taken first to the site of the Nazi Party rallies held annually from 1927 through 1938. Our guide explained how carefully these rallies were staged for maximum impact, and how "normal" people were persuaded to participate. He said that after the war, most Germans wanted to destroy everything with the hopes of erasing all memories. But it was decided that it was important to leave a reminder if it helped to prevent a repeat of such atrocities.

Nuremberg is also a medieval city and we had plenty of time to explore Nuremberg Castle and enjoy the views.

As we entered town, we were greeted by some sculptural spoofs of Durerstadt's famous rabbit sketch.

We finished our tour of the town and then wandered around the Hauptmarkt as it was being set up for the Christmas Markets.

VRC Germany: Regensburg

2009-11-13T21:00:00.042-06:00

We walked more miles in Regensberg than anywhere else. During and after our orientation tour, we took many photos of the town.

We happened upon a special tradition after a civil wedding ceremony. We cheered with everyone else as the couple cut out a heart in the white cloth held up by their friends

We made our obligatory stop at the cathedral.

Then we started walking and walking. We snapped whatever seemed interesting at the time.

We discovered a castle to explore. When we couldn't see the familiar Regensberg "skyline", we asked some schoolgirls to point us toward town. They said we were really far away, the buses were not running, and we should call a taxi.

The girls finally gave us some preliminary instructions and we got back just in time for the 2pm cuckoo clock tour.

After some well earned sausages at THE best place in town, we were ready to cross the bridge (completed 1146) and explore.

VRC Germany: Passau

2009-11-12T21:00:00.042-06:00

Passau sits where the Danube joins the Inn and Ilz rivers. After a short orientation tour, our guide bought tickets and deposited us in front of the Glass Musuem.

We returned to St Stephen's church to admire the 2nd largest church organ in the world (the largest is in Los Angeles.)

We found a cafe to give us strength.

We wandered many hours peeking into shops and alleys while taking photos of the many whimsical touches we found everywhere.

VRC Austria: Melk

2009-11-11T21:00:00.024-06:00

The view of baroque style Benedictine Melk Abbey perched high above the Danube was visually stunning, as was the view of the town from the abbey itself.

Inside, we saw treasure after treasure displayed in glass cabinets. The library filled with globes and books was fascinating.

At last, we stepped into opulent abbey. We were allowed to walk back to the ship via the picturesque town and a wooded path.

VRC Austria: Vienna

2009-11-10T21:00:00.012-06:00

Everything in Vienna always seems to be on a larger and grander scale than anywhere else in Europe. However, today was a rainy day and it got dark early. It was off-season and the two highlights of our day - Belvedere and Schonbrunn Palaces - did not show well.

VRC Slovakia: Bratislava

2009-11-09T21:00:00.054-06:00

Bratislava is pleasantly whimsical but small. After our short tour, we raced to Tesco on the basis that it sold the best and cheapest chocolates in all of Europe (per our unbiased Slovakian Program Director). We found the chocolates and much more. This Tesco was not like a London Tesco - it was filled with clothing bargains. I paid $2.75 for a very nice fleece cap and when I went to the counter, I got an additional 25% off. That is when Teresa and I both went back and stocked up on winter accessories (for those chilly Peruvian and Houston winters.)

As darkness fell, the town became more dramatic because of the special lighting on the castle and churches. We climbed up to Bratislava Castle for a panoramic night view of the city. Inside the castle walls, we discovered the "Amazing Planet" photography exhibit by Filip Kulisev. We were mesmerized for over an hour.

Last but not least, I have a special interest in Slovakia because my grandmother (mother's mother) and her family came from Slovakia (although from the Tatra mountains and my grandmother fondly remembered visiting Prague but never mentioned Bratislava). This is how she and a dancing partner might have dressed, had she not sailed to Ellis Island for a new life in New Jersey when she was 11.

VRC Hungary: Budapest

2009-11-08T21:00:00.031-06:00

It was pouring in Budapest so Teresa and most of the ship opted for the bus tour. A few stalwarts and I insisted on the walking tour since we were promised a ride on a funicular and the metro.

We also toured an abandoned apartment in which we could still admire its opulent luxury.

Later, we compared notes over coffee and pastry at Cafe Gerbeaud.

We found we had both seen many of the same "must-see" Budapest highlights including the Royal Palace (only a facade), Fishermen's Bastion, the Chain Bridge connecting hilltop Buda with sprawling lower Pest (note Hammersmith Bridge engineer William Tierney Clark also designed this bridge), and the colorful roof of Matyas Church fronted by King / Saint Stephen.

Together, we visited St Stephen's Basilica.

And took a few night photos before returning to the ship.

VRC Hungary: Kalocsa

2009-11-07T21:00:00.022-06:00

We enjoyed a triple feature in Kalocsa: Puszta Horse Show, Home Tour, and Evening Church Organ Concert.

VRC Serbia: Belgrade

2009-11-06T21:00:00.020-06:00

Belgrade is at the confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. Belgrade's oldest site, the walled Kalemegdan Fortress, is perched high above these rivers.

Our enthusiastic guide pointed out some serious signs of bombing during the most recent war

St Sava's Temple was both impressive and still under construction (or perhaps being repaired)

VRC Iron Gate & Viminacium

2009-11-05T21:00:00.060-06:00

The Iron Gate is a series of gorges between Serbia and Romania that used to render passage at this point almost impossible. Two locks and a dam made passage safer if less dramatic.

After the Roman Emperor Trajan defeated the Dacians almost 2000 years ago, he set down the Tabula Traiana on the Serbian side of the Danube as a marker to commemorate the building of a road into Dacia. More recently in 2004, sculptors completed a statue of the defeated Dacian King Decebalus on the Romanian side of the Danube. It took 12 sculptors 10 years to complete the 40-meter high monument, the tallest rock scupture in Europe.

Later that evening, we transferred off the ship in darkness on to a bus. Passing concrete apartments that looked abandoned and a working Serbian coal plant, we lumbered closer to an eerie glow in the distance. This was the first of the tented excavations of Viminacium, a northern Roman outpost.

The extensive baths and history of the site provided a good introduction but the necropolis under the next tent was the highlight. Archeologists discovered over 2000 tombs and have left some skeletons exposed.

Clinging to one another, we crawled underground to view colored frescos of the entombed.

VRC Bulgaria: Belogradchik Rocks & Fortress and Vidin

2009-11-04T21:00:00.025-06:00

Teresa scaled Belogradchik Fortress for a birdseye view of the surreal landscape. Some of the outcroppings reach 200 meters.

After we returned to the ship, we were allowed to wander around Vidin. Much to our surprise, we discovered the Baba Vida castle which we explored thoroughly.

Heading into town, we saw an abandonded synagogue and a beautiful church out of which we saw a priest and his entourage hurrying towards our ship to give a lecture on the orthodox church.

VRC Bulgaria: Veliko Tarnovo & Arbanasi

2009-11-03T21:00:00.020-06:00

Veliko Tarnovo is dominated by the citadel but some of the town buildings sport a kind of siding I had never seen.

I was much more fascinated by nearby Arbanasi. The Ottoman influence was clear in the home of the Turkish merchant Konstantsaliyata.

The simple exterior of Nativity Church of Christ provided no clue as to the frescoes and other treasures inside. And the enthusiasm and knowledge of our guide was unsurpassed.

VRC Bulgaria: Varna & Black Sea

2009-11-02T21:00:00.014-06:00

Of course no photos were allowed in the Varna Archeology Museum so I had to download two from their website. I had never seen jewelry placed on a skeleton where it was discovered. This skeleton in Tomb 23 of the Eneolithic necropolis and the jewelry are from the late Eneolithic period (~4500-4000 BC). This museum is literally a treasure trove.

We got to touch the Black Sea but it was deemed too rough for the planned cruise. We had to be satisfied with the placid Lake Varna.

VRC Romania: Bucharest

2009-11-01T21:00:00.020-06:00

The Patriarchal Cathedral in Bucharest was very busy - Teresa took a quick photo over the crowd. Outside, many were lighting candles for their loved ones.

Bucharest displayed some impressive buildings on our quick "drive-by"

Although a bit "nippy", my favorite was the open-air museum

Torquay with Geeta and Gordon

2009-08-23T14:17:00.023-05:00

Geeta and Gordon invited us into their hilltop Torquay home with sea views. They also escorted us to as many area sights as was possible to fit into a single weekend. They picked us up on Friday at the Newton Abbott rail station and we proceeded to Dartmoor National Park. Dartmoor was the inspiration for Arthur Conan Doyle's "The Hound of the Baskervilles". Our first stop was to early 19th century stone tracks used to transport granite from Haytor quarry to the canal at Stover and on to Teignmouth. The British Museum and London Bridge were built from this stone. We then stopped for tea in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, a village famous for its St Pancras church with tall, granite tower and annual fair. Soon, it was time to drive through the windy wooded Torquay hills for a relaxing dinner at home.

The next morning we got up early to make our reserved 3-hour parking slot at Greenway House overlooking the River Dart. Agatha Christie was born and raised in Torquay, and she bought Greenway House as a summer home. The first home built on this site was in 1523. After many owners and renovations, Dame Agatha (aka Mrs Mallowan) remodelled Greenway House "for modern living" in 1938.

As Agatha Christie fans, we loved the home visit. We then strolled the grounds visiting the boat / bath house, a Kwan Yin, and a Bridget McCrum outdoor sculpture.

We took a car ferry to the picturesque town of Dartmouth. We drove directly to an American war memorial erected in 1954 and dedicated to the people of South Hams who were evacuated (some never to return) so that D-Day preparation exercises could be performed. This memorial also commemorates the almost one thousand (exact number unknown) American soldiers who lost their lives one night when they were surprised by an attack by 9 German E-Boats. In the confusion, lives were also lost from "friendly fire". This event was kept secret for 40 years and "Project Tiger" casualties were purposely mixed in with the D-Day losses.

Upon returning to Torquay, Gordon led us on a vigorous hour walk down to the beach through wooded paths and back up some very steep hills - enough to get the heart racing without running.

Oporto Essentials

2009-08-11T16:53:00.009-05:00

STAY

The Grande Hotel do Porto (http://www.grandehotelporto.com/) is located on the pedestrian shopping street Rua de Santa Catarina and is accessible to public transportation. Although renovated in 2002, this hotel still reflects the details and charm of the luxury hotel it was when it first opened in 1880.

EAT

For authentic Portuguese cuisine, exit the Grande Hotel to your left and head down the first cobblestone alley on your left until you see Abadia on your right. The appetisers (including octopus) set down before you even have a chance to order are lavish. Consider ordering half portion mains (you won’t go hungry) and house wine (excellent quality at excellent prices).

In fine weather, walk down to the medieval quayside area on the Douro River and grab a table. You can enjoy almost any cuisine as you admire the views from this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

GETTING AROUND

Oporto is so hilly that you can get “buns of steel” if you’re not careful. Better to hop on the “Yellow Sightseeing Bus” with three audio-guided sightseeing routes: Historical, Bridges, and Castles. Your ticket may be used for a discount on a River Duoro Cruise and is also good on any public transportation.

DON’T MISS

What makes Oporto famous – the port! On the opposite bank of the Douro, over 20 Port Houses offer tours and tastings. You can learn about the history of port, what distinguishes port from other wines, and perhaps find a personal favourite to bring home.

(and Don't Miss this Charming Riverside Villa for Sale)

AVOID

The Majestic Café is a stunning example of Art Nouveau design and located within a block of the Grande Hotel. However, avoid ordering anything more complicated than a simple beverage or you may find yourself overwhelming both the staff capabilities and your budget.

Lisbon: Day 2

2009-08-09T16:43:00.004-05:00

Our day started with a guided tour of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos followed by pastries at Pasteis de Belem desde 1837 (I also ate our guide's share of the specialty custard tarts). We skipped the guided tour to the Coach (as in horse drawn) museum and instead found our own way to the Torre de Belém and nearby (Vasco da Gama) Discoveries Monument. Then we took the train (again using our Lisboa card) to Cascais, a sea resort. We ended our day with a wander up and down Avenida da Liberdade and a light dinner at one of the outside garden bars.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos: Vasco da Gama and his crew prayed at this site before their historic voyage to India. The stone tombs of Vasco da Gama (1468-1523) of the poet Luís de Camões (1527-1570) are located near the western portal of the monastery.

Torre de Belém: A defensive tower built in the early sixteenth century in the distinctive Portuguese "Manueline" (some describe as "late-Gothic") style to commemorate Vasco da Gama's expedition.

Cascais Sea Resort: Our guide claimed this resort was more upscale than Estoril

Lisbon: Day 1

2009-08-08T16:49:00.007-05:00

Castelo de Sao Jorge: We took the tram up, up to this medieval citadel with panoramic view of Lisbon. Anna led us down winding alleys to the Decorative Arts museum in the Alfama. Soon, the morning tours were over and it was time to explore Lisbon on our own.

We took the metro red line to Oriente and onto the grounds built for Expo '98. We viewed amazing creatures through multi-story aquariums in the Oceanarium. The most unusual was the Sunfish - rarely seen because it is so difficult to maintain in captivity (Wikipedia photo).

Back in Lisbon, it took perseverance to find the Port Institute but we were determined! We were ushered into a quiet space with deep couches and an "old club" ambience. Hundreds of ports in all price ranges were available. Between the six of us, we were able to taste quite a few.

On the funicular trip back down, an attempt to pickpocket Kris was thwarted - Kris slapped the pickpocket's hand hard, glared directly at him -- and the guy quickly departed. He should have known better than to try that on someone who grew up in Bombay.

Sintra

2009-08-07T15:41:00.010-05:00

Using our Lisboa card, we took the train to Sintra. We departed from a station originally designed for the Orient Express and thus decorated with beautiful tiles.

After arriving in Sintra, we began our steep ascent into town, passing sculptures of interest to distract us from the efforts of our climb.

After a thorough history lecture by Anna, we climbed even higher to reach Quinta da Regaleria. Carvalho Monteiro purchased this estate in 1892. He proceeded to add grottos, a chapel, tunnels, fountains, lakes and all sorts of bits to reflect his particular spiritual beliefs. Wandering around the estate and discovering something fascinating to ponder every few minutes was delightful.

It was nice to descend back into town for coffee and pastries before our tour of Palácio Nacional de Sintra. This ornately tiled and decorated room was the highlight.

Now it was time to take the bus to the top of the mountain to visit the Palace de Pena. While the guys bought tickets to the gardens and headed for the beverage kiosk and tables, Heather and I opted to visit the palace. It was another long steep climb to the palace and a very long queue to tour the interior (no photos of course). The views of the surrounding forest and to the sea were fantastic.

Day in Ghent

2009-08-05T11:36:00.015-05:00

Ghent is a medieval city with more listed buildings than any other city in Belgium. Wandering (remember to look UP) and cruising yield surprises................................................

Ghent River Hotel

Lady Luck

War Memorial

Cobblestone Alley in Patershol Demolition from the Inside

Doorway Ship Sculpture

Early Morning Artist

Bathing Birds (but, are they getting any cleaner?)
Broken Dishes Turned into Doorway Art
Kraanlei 79 De Fluitspeler

Thames: The Source to Cricklade ------- The Finish!!

2009-07-04T11:08:00.011-05:00

It was a dodgy start. The nice taxi lady pointed out the Thames Head pub and railroad tracks before dropping us (Carrie, Kris, Kris's childhood pal Rangu) off at a public footpath. She assured us it led directly to the Thames Path and was the shortest walk to The Source (she knew I did not want to walk a centimeter more than necessary). We soon got to a fork and of course turned left instead of right. We crossed the tracks and reached the same Thames Head pub the taxi driver had so kindly pointed out earlier. We were told to go back the way we came and take the other path.

We were so happy to finally reach The Source marker and "spring", no matter how unimpressive they were. We took pictures of other hikers and they took pictures of us. We were now on our way to walking the last 12 miles of our 200+ mile journey (depending on what source you use).

It was quite a long stretch of dry bed and we were well past Kemble before we saw our first signs of water.
We passed through picturesque and historic villages.

Although the Thames often resembled a small tributary or a lily pad pond, we did pass through many sizable lakes enjoyed by water skiers and birders.

At long last, we reached the lovely town of Cricklade.

We were grateful to be lodging at the Red Lion pub with a GREAT assortment of ales, lagers, bitters, porters. We all slept long and well that night.

AWC Hastings to Rye

2009-07-01T16:46:00.022-05:00

This was one tough hike courtesy of Time Out Country Walks Book 2. I left Kew at 8:30 am and did not return until 9:30 pm. Some of the directions were confusing and we got to see the windmill on the pre-hike that we did not get to see on the "real" hike. But the weather and views made it all worth it. I will let these pictures speak for themselves.